How did I feel about the people and country on my return? Initially I had to observe the Vietnamese closely to get a read on them. But, it's obvious that my feelings have changed. Initially how I feel is very subjective. Describing how I feel is going to be somewhat difficult so bear with me.
First Impressions
When we set foot in Saigon I thought we were prepared for what was coming Turns out we did, sort of. But knowing and experiencing are different things.
Months of research and reading didn't prepare us for the extreme heat and humidity, the crush of people, noise, organized chaos, motorbikes, smells and barrage of colors and sounds we encountered.
Saigon is a city of ten million. When we first experienced Saigon it felt both organized and frenetic at the same time. Towards the end of this trip it feels familiar and safe. There is somehow a profound calm within the chaos.
Family
We quickly learned that family is revered, kindness is both provided and expected and that helping elders and others is the hallmark and priority.
Public
We figured out abruptly that the Vietnamese are loud in public, really loud. Talking on the phone here seems to be a public event. They almost yell into their phones and a lot of them use the speaker phone turned up to the "ears bleeding" mode. But, having said that they are kind and concerned about others in sort of a gruff way.
Motorbikes
The single most "in your face" thing about Vietnam is the motorbike and horns.
Motorbikes are everywhere. They can be found hauling everything and anything that we would haul in a truck, car or in a van.
Since the Vietnamese don't make a lot of money, motorbikes are their SUV's.
Most Vietnamese don't make more than $90-$200 a month unless they are educated abroad. Rural jobs and farmer's make far less.
So, the motorbike is the most affordable and predominant vehicle for most. It is the soul transportation conveyance for individuals and they are used for everything.
Things we saw transported on motorbikes are mind bending. For instance we saw motorbikes with families of five aboard, stacked with eight 80 kilo bags of rice, ten bags of premixed concrete, twenty four ducks, dozens and dozens of eggs, live pigs, chickens, exotic birds, large cages of live frogs, propane tanks, ten five gallon bottles of water, and every size and description of boxes.
Traffic
Traffic, oh, the traffic. Imagine four lanes full to capacity with motorbikes. Then add ox drawn carts, three wheel trucks, large eighteen wheelers, busses, taxis, motorbikes, bicycles, dump trucks, pedestrians, roadside food stalls and tour vans.
The only rule for driving here is that there are no rules. We witnessed deliberate passing into oncoming traffic without regard to personal or public safety, passing on the right, driving in lanes designated as motorbike only, driving the wrong way on one way streets, constant and deliberate cutting off of other vehicles with impunity. It is in a word, insanity.
The only rule for driving here is that there are no rules. We witnessed deliberate passing into oncoming traffic without regard to personal or public safety, passing on the right, driving in lanes designated as motorbike only, driving the wrong way on one way streets, constant and deliberate cutting off of other vehicles with impunity. It is in a word, insanity.
The drivers here have exceptional situational awareness. Nobody has accidents in all this chaos. Yeah, I don't know how either. I am a motorcyclist and I can't tell you the admiration I feel for their prowess as motorbike riders. Simply exceptional.
Horns
Horns are used universally, quite happily, and almost joyously. Buses have warbling horns that warble in ascending or descending tones depending on the drivers preferences.
Large trucks have exceptionally loud air horns. Motorbikes have the typical meep, meep horns, then there are the cars. All use them constantly. They use them to warn people around them of their presence. They are used to indicate someone is a dumb ass, but most of all, they are used because they can.
Martha thinks that the Vietnamese are generally quiet people and she is is amused and bemused that they make so much noise when they are out on the road.
Religion
As I understand it, the Vietnamese primarily believe in the afterlife of their ancestors and themselves so their religious values are a mixture of religions including Catholicism, Caodeism, Daoism, Protestantism and Buddhism.
Like most things Vietnamese, their religions seem to be a fusion religious value systems that are refined to honor a higher deity or belief. Their individual traditions can't be easily defined. Rather they must be taken at the face value of the believer.
The most important take away of religion in Vietnam is the belief of the afterlife of their ancestors and themselves. They burn fake; money, food, paper houses, cars and motorbikes to insure that the smoke of those items ride into the heavens and the afterlife to provide for their ancestors.
Overall First Impression of the People
All in all I find the Vietnamese to be warm, hard working and fun loving. Their devotion to family and religion is strong. They live in the moment and at this time, in peace.
Returning Veterans Need to read this - "We are better Now"
For those of us returning after the "American War" you need to know that there is truly very little animosity if any. Don't come expecting any. But like me, I know you will. I expected it even though I was told that they want us to return, and they do.
The people are welcoming and anxious for us to see their country as it is now and as it has progressed since we were in country last. They are extremely proud of their progress, perseverance and resilience. My personal observation is that the further north and closer to Hanoi one gets, the people seem more reserved but none the less quite accommodating.
The people are welcoming and anxious for us to see their country as it is now and as it has progressed since we were in country last. They are extremely proud of their progress, perseverance and resilience. My personal observation is that the further north and closer to Hanoi one gets, the people seem more reserved but none the less quite accommodating.
When I divulged that I had been in Vietnam to a national they most likely will say something like "That's in the past," "We are better now" or "We don't think about that anymore."
On our last day on the Dragons Pearl 2 (Halong Bay) I struck up a conversion with a twenty seven year old man. When I told him I was in the war he got his laptop out and opened some archival YouTube videos showing the war from the perspective of both sides.
He then explained that he is saving the videos for when his one year old son is old enough to understand how hard his Father, Grandfather and Great Grandfather fought for their country so that he could live in peace.
One his videos showed the bombing of Hanoi. The bombs where raining down from B-52's. I can't explain why, but this shook me to the core and made me very emotional. The man saw this and said "it's over, we are better now." Hearing this sums up how the Vietnamese feel in general about the war with the Americans.
For me, having the opportunity to go back gave me peace. I feel differently now than I did three weeks ago. I have to agree with the young man on the boat. I am "better now." I look forward to the upcoming months and years. I hope I am able to be a better person, more reliable, more loving and more trusting. I am somewhat guarded when I say this but I think I will be ok now.
For me, I believe the war may finally be over. I am hopeful.
Martha's Notes:
For me, having the opportunity to go back gave me peace. I feel differently now than I did three weeks ago. I have to agree with the young man on the boat. I am "better now." I look forward to the upcoming months and years. I hope I am able to be a better person, more reliable, more loving and more trusting. I am somewhat guarded when I say this but I think I will be ok now.
For me, I believe the war may finally be over. I am hopeful.
Martha's Notes:
I am really proud of Chuck. He's had a few tearful moments, but he's stronger and happier now than he was when this journey began. He has been delighted watching the children here. I took a back seat and let him set our direction, because this was his healing journey.
When it got to be time to leave was about the time that I started to feel comfortable there. I have to say, overall, I like the energy of the people who live here.
This was my first adventure as a world explorer, and I am determined to get the credit card paid down quickly, so we can begin to plan the next adventure.
